Waxing and retinol: the rule everyone should know

Retinol, a vitamin A derivative, is a powerful skincare ingredient known for promoting skin cell turnover. It helps address concerns like fine lines, acne, and uneven skin tone. While highly effective, retinol also makes your skin more sensitive and fragile, which is an important consideration when performing other skincare routines.

When it comes to hair removal, especially waxing, applying retinol creates a significant risk. The combination can lead to uncomfortable and potentially damaging skin reactions. Understanding this interaction is key to maintaining healthy skin while achieving smooth, hair-free results.

Retinol works by accelerating the rate at which your skin sheds old cells and generates new ones. This process thins the top layer of your skin, making it more delicate and vulnerable. This increased sensitivity means your skin is not as resilient as usual.

During a waxing session, wax adheres to both the hair and the surface of your skin. When the wax is removed, it pulls away the hair. If your skin is thinned and sensitized by retinol, the forceful removal of wax can tear the skin, leading to redness, irritation, peeling, scabbing, and even scarring. This is particularly true for facial waxing or sensitive areas.

To safely wax, you should stop using any retinol or retinoid products on the area to be waxed for at least seven days before your appointment. This allows your skin enough time to regain some of its natural resilience and reduce its sensitivity. The exact timeframe can vary based on individual skin type and the strength of the retinol product.

After your waxing service, it is also important to continue abstaining from retinol products on the waxed area for another seven days. This post-waxing pause gives your skin a chance to heal and recover from the exfoliation and potential stress of the hair removal process. Reintroducing retinol too soon can cause renewed irritation.

Retinol is not the only skincare ingredient that requires a pause before waxing. Other active ingredients that increase skin cell turnover or exfoliation can also lead to similar sensitivities. It is wise to discontinue these for a week before and after waxing, especially on the treatment area.

Look for ingredients such as alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) like glycolic acid or lactic acid, and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) like salicylic acid. Strong exfoliating cleansers, toners, and serums containing these acids should be avoided. If you are unsure about a specific product, it is best to err on the side of caution and consult with your esthetician.

If you accidentally used retinol within the seven-day window before your waxing appointment, it is crucial to inform your esthetician immediately. Do not proceed with the wax without disclosing this information. Your esthetician can assess the risk and advise you on the best course of action.

They might suggest rescheduling your appointment to allow your skin more time to recover, or recommend an alternative hair removal method like sugaring, which can be gentler. Attempting to wax while your skin is compromised can result in significant irritation, skin lifting, or even lasting damage. Prioritizing skin health is always the best approach.